Reviewing the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw: Beyond Marketing
The Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw is a compact and lightweight piece of climbing hardware designed to offer efficiency and ease of use on the rock. Manufactured by Mad Rock, it features their Super Tech carabiners with a Keylock nose on one end and a bent gate on the other, connected by a short, 4-inch Dyneema dogbone. For years, I’ve relied on my gear to perform flawlessly across a spectrum of demanding environments, from high-alpine routes to dusty workshop benches, and I approached this quickdraw with a seasoned eye for practical utility.
My need for a robust yet streamlined quickdraw system stemmed from a recent push for efficiency on longer sport routes where minimizing weight and clutter on the harness is paramount. While my existing draws were functional, some felt a bit bulky, and the older non-keylock noses were proving to be a minor annoyance when threading the rope. I considered a few other ultra-lightweight options from major manufacturers, but the specific combination of Mad Rock’s reputation for solid value and the promise of a snag-free Keylock system drew me in. My initial impression upon unboxing these draws was one of understated competence; they felt solid in hand, well-constructed, and surprisingly light, sparking a sense of quiet confidence.
First Use Experience
My initial testing grounds for the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw were the limestone sport crags just outside my local area. I was specifically looking for routes with a good number of quickdraw placements to simulate a true-use scenario. The draws performed admirably, clipping bolts smoothly with the Keylock nose and holding the rope securely with the bent gate.
I noticed that the 10 cm dogbone length felt just right for most sport cruxes, offering a good balance between preventing rope drag and maintaining a streamlined profile. The carabiners themselves felt secure in my hand, even with sweaty palms after a strenuous climb, and the overall build quality held up to repeated clipping and unclipping. I didn’t encounter any snags or unexpected issues during these initial outings, which is always a good sign.
Extended Use & Reliability
After several months and countless pitches, the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw has become a staple in my rack. They’ve seen action on everything from roadside sport projects to longer multi-pitch adventures where every ounce counts. Despite constant use and the occasional accidental drop onto the ground, the Dyneema dogbone remains supple and shows no signs of fraying.
The Keylock nose has proven to be just as effective as advertised, significantly reducing the hassle of threading the rope through the bolt hanger, especially on older or slightly worn bolts. The bent gate carabiner on the rope end has also been a reliable performer, providing a generous gate opening and a satisfyingly solid feel. Maintenance has been minimal; a quick rinse under water after a particularly dusty climbing day is usually all that’s needed to keep them functioning perfectly. Compared to some of the older, heavier draws I’ve used in the past, these are a significant improvement in terms of both weight and handling.
Specifications
Let’s break down what makes the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw tick. The core of each draw consists of two Mad Rock Super Tech carabiners. One is a straight gate with a Keylock nose, designed for easy, snag-free attachment to protection like bolts or cams. The other is a bent gate carabiner, which is typically the end where you clip the rope, offering a larger gate opening and easier rope management.
These carabiners are connected by a 4″x10mm Dyneema dogbone, a relatively short and narrow sling that contributes significantly to the draw’s low weight and compact profile. The Dyneema fabric is known for its exceptional strength-to-weight ratio and resistance to abrasion. The overall weight is listed at 3 oz for the set, which is competitive for such a functional quickdraw. The carabiners themselves boast an 8 kN open strength, which is standard and perfectly adequate for climbing applications. The absence of a locking mechanism on these carabiners makes them non-locking biners, ideal for quickdraw duty where speed and ease of use are prioritized.
Performance & Functionality
In terms of its primary function, the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw performs admirably. Clipping into bolts is smooth and efficient thanks to the Keylock system, which truly eliminates the annoying snagging I’ve experienced with older style noses. The bent gate on the rope end is intuitive to use and allows for quick and secure rope attachment, even when your fingers are cold or tired.
The short 10 cm dogbone is a double-edged sword; it excels at minimizing rope drag on straight-in clips and keeping the rack tidy, but it can sometimes feel a little too short on wandering routes where you need to extend your protection significantly. However, for the intended purpose of sport climbing and streamlining a rack, its performance is excellent. It meets, and in some aspects exceeds, expectations for a lightweight draw in its price bracket.
Design & Ergonomics
The design of the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw is focused on practicality and weight savings. The carabiners themselves have a clean, uncluttered profile, and the Keylock nose is subtly integrated, avoiding any sharp edges. The bent gate offers a comfortable ergonomic shape for manipulation, and the gates operate smoothly with a satisfying snap.
The Dyneema dogbone is thin and lightweight, making it comfortable to handle and manage on the harness. While the short length is functional, it does mean that when extended, the carabiners can sit quite close together. This is a common trade-off with shorter draws, and for most sport climbing scenarios, it’s a worthwhile compromise for the reduced weight and cleaner rack.
Durability & Maintenance
Given their lightweight construction, the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw seems to be built for durability within its intended use. The aluminum carabiners are anodized, offering a good level of scratch resistance, and the gates have held up well to repeated use without becoming sloppy. The Dyneema dogbone, while susceptible to damage from sharp edges or prolonged UV exposure, is generally robust.
For maintenance, keeping these draws clean is straightforward; a bit of water and mild soap will remove dirt and grime. It’s crucial to inspect the Dyneema for any signs of wear, such as fuzzing or cuts, and to check the carabiner gates for smooth operation. Mad Rock does not explicitly state a lifespan for these quickdraws, but like all climbing gear, they should be retired if any signs of significant wear or damage are observed.
Accessories and Customization Options
The Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw is a complete unit, meaning there aren’t typically separate accessories to purchase for it. The defining features are the carabiners themselves and the 10mm Dyneema dogbone. There are no aftermarket parts designed to modify these quickdraws, as they are built as integrated units.
However, users can purchase these draws in various quantities, often as packs of 5 or 10, to outfit an entire rack. The color scheme, often a distinctive Blue/Orange combination for the carabiners, can help with organization if you choose to color-code your draws for specific routes or bolt types.
Pros and Cons of Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw
Pros
- Snag-free Keylock nose on the straight gate carabiner significantly aids in clipping bolts.
- Lightweight design with 3 oz weight is ideal for reducing rack bulk on long routes.
- Dyneema dogbone is strong, durable, and keeps the overall profile slim.
- Competitive price point makes them an accessible option for many climbers.
- Smooth gate action on both the straight and bent gates provides reliable performance.
Cons
- The 10 cm dogbone can be too short for certain wandering routes, potentially increasing rope drag.
- As non-locking biners, they are not suitable for situations requiring a locked connection.
- The blue/orange color scheme, while distinctive, might not suit everyone’s aesthetic preferences.
Who Should Buy Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw?
The Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw is an excellent choice for sport climbers, especially those who prioritize a lightweight rack and appreciate the efficiency of snag-free clipping. They are also a solid option for climbers looking to upgrade from older, heavier quickdraws without breaking the bank. Beginners starting their climbing journey will find these easy to use and an affordable way to build a functional rack.
However, those primarily engaged in trad climbing or situations demanding extensive gear racking for protection placement might find the short 10 cm dogbone limiting. Climbers who require locking carabiners for specific anchors or situations should look elsewhere, as these are strictly non-locking. If you need a quickdraw that excels at minimizing weight and simplifying bolt clipping on steep sport routes, these are definitely worth considering.
Conclusion on Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw
The Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw offers a compelling blend of lightweight performance and user-friendly features at a very attractive price. Its Keylock nose is a standout feature that genuinely improves the clipping experience, and the overall construction feels robust enough for regular sport climbing use. While the short 10 cm dogbone might present limitations on very wandering routes, for its intended application, it’s a well-executed design.
Considering its performance, durability, and especially its price point of around $19.95 per draw, the value proposition is strong. I would readily recommend the Mad Rock Super Tech Keylock Quickdraw to any sport climber looking to streamline their rack and enhance their clipping efficiency. If you’re building a new rack or looking to replace older draws with a lighter, more modern option, these are a smart and practical choice.