Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack Review

One Month Later: Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack Review

For years, the quest for lighter gear that doesn’t compromise on performance has been a driving force in the outdoor industry. My personal journey through climbing, canyoneering, and demanding fieldwork often meant juggling heavy racks and accepting compromises. The Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack entered my gear closet precisely at a time when I was evaluating my rack’s weight-to-functionality ratio. I was looking for a set of draws that wouldn’t add unnecessary bulk to my harness but would still feel robust and user-friendly on the rock.

My primary motivation for seeking out these particular quickdraws was a growing frustration with the cumulative weight of my traditional draws on longer routes. While I appreciate the beefier feel of some older designs, the sheer number required for multi-pitch ascents can be a significant burden. I needed something that felt substantial enough for confidence but light enough to reduce fatigue and encourage more ambitious climbs.

My initial impression upon unboxing the Mad Rock set was one of pleasant surprise. The carabiners, while noticeably lighter than my go-to models, didn’t feel flimsy. The finish was clean and anodized, suggesting good corrosion resistance, a crucial factor for gear used in varied outdoor environments. The Dyneema dogbone also had a good stiffness, which immediately hinted at easier clipping.

I had considered a few other ultra-light options, particularly those with smaller, more compact carabiner bodies. However, the product descriptions for this Mad Rock set emphasized larger, more usable carabiners despite their light weight, which tipped the scales in their favor. My first reaction was one of optimistic curiosity – a feeling that I might have found a solution that balances the two most critical factors in quickdraw design: weight and usability.

Real-World Testing: Putting Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack to the Test

First Use Experience

My first outing with the Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack was a multi-pitch trad climb in the granite domes of the Sierra Nevada. I replaced my entire rack of draws with these, aiming to assess their performance under typical, demanding conditions. The granite here is sharp and abrasive, offering a true test of any gear’s durability and clipping ease.

I specifically tested the draws in a variety of situations: clipping into bomber cams, struggling with awkward placements that required precise carabiner orientation, and as belay station anchors. The draws performed exceptionally well in the dry, dusty environment, with no signs of stiffness or grit affecting the gate action. The rubber insert on the bent-gate carabiner proved invaluable, consistently orienting the biner for quick rope attachment.

Ease of use was remarkably high right out of the package. The slightly larger-than-expected carabiner size for their weight made clipping feel natural, even with gloves on in cooler mountain air. My only minor surprise was how easily the straight-gate carabiner on the end of the draw seemed to engage with my protection, a testament to its refined gate geometry.

Extended Use & Reliability

After a month of consistent use, including several longer climbing days and a brief foray into sport climbing at my local crag, the Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack continues to impress. The draws have seen repeated clipping of ropes, accidental drops onto sandy ground, and exposure to moderate humidity. Despite this, the gates remain smooth and free of sticking, and the anodized finish shows only the faintest of scuffs, primarily from rope drag.

Durability has been excellent. There are no signs of cracks or any deformation in the carabiners, even after some enthusiastic, albeit accidental, tests against rock. The Dyneema dogbones show no fraying, and the rubber inserts are still securely in place.

Maintenance has been minimal. A quick wipe-down with a damp cloth is usually sufficient to remove any accumulated dust or grime. I haven’t experienced any stiffness or performance degradation that would necessitate a deeper cleaning or lubrication. Compared to some other ultra-light draws I’ve used in the past, these feel significantly more robust for their weight class, easily outperforming budget alternatives and holding their own against more premium, though often heavier, options.

Breaking Down the Features of Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack

Specifications

The Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack is a set of six quickdraws, each featuring a 10cm Dyneema dogbone. The carabiners themselves are constructed from Aluminum, utilizing a forged I-beam construction. This design is key to their impressive strength-to-weight ratio.

Each draw includes one straight-gate and one bent-gate wire gate biner. These carabiners boast a robust 25 kN strength, which is commendable for their low mass. The open strength is rated at 8 kN, providing a good margin of safety.

The overall weight for the six-pack is listed at 1 lb, averaging just over 2.5 ounces per draw. This weight is significantly less than traditional full-sized quickdraws, making a noticeable difference when carrying multiple draws. The Dyneema runner is 10cm long, a standard and versatile length for most climbing applications. The anodized finish contributes to corrosion resistance, an essential feature for gear exposed to the elements.

Performance & Functionality

The primary function of a quickdraw is to provide a secure and easy way to connect protection to a climbing rope. The Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express excels in this regard. The straight-gate carabiner at the protection end offers a clean, positive gate action that bites securely into gear placements.

Conversely, the bent-gate carabiner on the rope end is designed for swift and easy rope attachment. This is where the combination of the smooth gate action and the slightly larger gate opening truly shines. The rubber insert in the dogbone is a critical feature, effectively keeping the bent-gate carabiner oriented upwards, reducing fumbling when clipping the rope, especially during dynamic moves or when pumped.

The performance is consistently reliable. I haven’t experienced any unexpected gate flutter or accidental unclipping, even under moderate shock loading. The balance of light weight and substantial feel means that while you save on ounces, you don’t sacrifice the confidence that comes from a well-made piece of gear. Compared to other ultra-light options that can feel a bit ‘tinny’, these feel decidedly solid.

Design & Ergonomics

Mad Rock has clearly put significant thought into the design of these quickdraws. The forged I-beam construction is a smart engineering choice, allowing for maximum strength with minimal material. This results in a carabiner that feels substantial in the hand despite its low weight.

The ergonomics are excellent. The size of the carabiners, while described as slightly smaller than traditional full-size biners, are surprisingly spacious and easy to manipulate. This is particularly true for the bent-gate biner, which offers ample room for comfortable rope insertion. The anodized finish provides a good grip without being overly aggressive, and the smooth gate operation is a pleasure to use.

The wire gate design is a clever compromise for weight savings. While some climbers prefer solid gates for their perceived durability, wire gates are lighter, less prone to icing up in cold conditions, and generally offer a crisper action. The tension on the wire gates in this set feels just right – firm enough to snap shut reliably but not so stiff as to be fatiguing.

Durability & Maintenance

Based on a month of rigorous use, the durability of the Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack appears to be very high for its intended purpose and weight class. The aluminum carabiners are robust, and the Dyneema dogbones are known for their excellent abrasion resistance. The hot forged construction of the carabiners suggests a high level of manufacturing integrity, contributing to their overall longevity.

Maintenance is straightforward. As mentioned, regular cleaning with a brush and water is sufficient for most conditions. It’s crucial to avoid using harsh chemicals that could degrade the Dyneema or affect the anodized finish. If the gates ever feel sluggish, a tiny drop of a specialized lubricant designed for climbing gear can restore their smooth action.

The primary potential failure point in any quickdraw is the dogbone’s stitching or wear, or the carabiner gate mechanism. So far, there are no signs of weakness in either area. I would anticipate a long service life from these draws, provided they are used within their rated capacities and subjected to regular safety checks.

Accessories and Customization Options

This Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack is a complete set as purchased. It comes with six fully assembled quickdraws. The primary “accessory” is the integrated rubber insert within the Dyneema dogbone, which is a crucial functional element ensuring the bent-gate carabiner stays properly oriented for clipping.

Beyond the included components, there are no inherent customization options for the draws themselves. However, Mad Rock offers replacement carabiners and dogbones separately, allowing users to repair or replace individual components if needed, rather than having to buy an entirely new set. The compatibility with other climbing gear, such as harnesses, ropes, and protection devices, is universal, as is standard for carabiners and slings.

Pros and Cons of Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack

Who Should Buy Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack?

The Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack is an excellent choice for any climber focused on minimizing weight without sacrificing functionality. This includes sport climbers heading to areas where they might carry many draws, trad climbers tackling long multi-pitch routes, and backpackers who also engage in scrambling or easy aid climbing where a light rack is essential. Anyone who has felt the drag of a heavy rack on a long approach or ascent will appreciate the benefits.

Those who should perhaps reconsider are climbers who exclusively operate in environments where extreme abrasion is constant and prolonged, and they might prioritize a solid gate carabiner for that extra layer of perceived security. If budget is an absolute non-issue and premium, boutique options are the only consideration, other brands might offer slightly different aesthetics or feel. However, for the vast majority of climbers seeking a high-performance, lightweight, and reasonably priced quickdraw set, these are a fantastic option.

For those purchasing, ensure you have appropriate locking carabiners for your belay station anchor points if you plan to use these draws for that purpose, as the quickdraws themselves are non-locking.

Conclusion on Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack

The Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack stands out as a superb value in the climbing gear market. It successfully navigates the challenging balance between ultralight design and practical usability. The carabiners are surprisingly comfortable to handle, and the smooth gate action, combined with the well-designed dogbone and rubber insert, makes for efficient clipping in real-world climbing scenarios.

Considering the price point of $107.70 for a six-pack, these draws offer exceptional performance that rivals much more expensive competitors. The forged I-beam construction and 25 kN strength provide the necessary confidence for serious climbing.

I wholeheartedly recommend the Mad Rock Ultra Light Draw Express, 6 Pack to any climber looking to shave weight off their rack without compromising on quality or ease of use. They are a smart investment for anyone seeking to improve their climbing efficiency and enjoyment on longer, more demanding ascents.