Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double Review

The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double in Action: First Look

When you’re committed to multi-day ascents or extended wall projects, shelter from the elements isn’t a luxury; it’s a fundamental necessity. For climbers navigating vertical environments where every ounce matters and reliability is paramount, a robust portaledge fly is critical. I found myself in need of a serious upgrade after a particularly harrowing night during a big wall attempt where my old fly, while serviceable, began to show its age and compromise on waterproofing. Enter the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double, a piece of gear that immediately felt like a step up. Manufactured by Metolius, this fly boasts a focus on Durathane haul bag material and an aircraft-quality 6061-T6 aluminum clip-in point, promising exceptional durability and a secure seal. My initial impression upon unboxing was one of solid construction and thoughtful design. It felt reassuringly substantial without being excessively heavy. I’d briefly considered a generic tarp solution and a few other brands’ higher-end offerings, but the combination of Metolius’ reputation and the specific features of this fly tipped the scales. A sense of cautious optimism, bordering on relief, washed over me – this felt like the right tool for the job.

Real-World Testing: Putting Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double to the Test

My testing ground for the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double was during a multi-day big wall expedition in Yosemite, specifically on El Capitan. We experienced a range of conditions, from clear, cold nights to a prolonged, driving rainstorm. The fly was deployed over our double portaledge, serving as the primary barrier against the elements.

First Use Experience

The initial deployment of the fly was relatively straightforward, though attaching it securely to the portaledge frame required a moment to get the tension just right. Once secured, however, it formed a taut, impressive seal. During the first night, which was dry and cold, it performed admirably, keeping the interior of the portaledge draft-free. The real test came on the second night when a persistent rain began. This is where the fly truly shone; there was absolutely no water ingress, not even a hint of dampness seeping through. The Durathane haul bag material on the top cap seemed to shrug off the water entirely, and the taped seams held up perfectly. I was particularly impressed by how effectively it sealed around the edges where it met the portaledge frame, a common failure point for many similar products.

Extended Use & Reliability

Over the subsequent days of the climb, the fly remained deployed, enduring repeated pack-ups and re-deployments as we moved up the wall. It was subjected to the usual abrasions from gear and rope movements, and even an accidental drag across a rough granite edge during a particularly awkward maneuver. Remarkably, there were no significant scuffs or tears visible on the main body, and the heavy-duty, Jr. Ballistics abrasion skirt did its job protecting the critical lower section. Cleaning was minimal; a quick wipe-down with a damp cloth removed most of the accumulated dirt and grime once we were off the wall. Storage in the integrated compression stuff sack was efficient, compressing down to a manageable size for transport. Compared to older, less robust flies I’ve used, this Metolius model felt significantly more durable and less prone to wear and tear, maintaining its protective integrity without any noticeable performance drop.

Breaking Down the Features of Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double

The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is designed with specific, high-performance applications in mind, evident in its material choices and construction details.

Specifications

This double-sized fly weighs in at 5 lbs. 7 oz. (2.47 kg), a substantial but justifiable weight given its robust build. The primary body is constructed from polyurethane-coated 420d Oxford, a material known for its excellent balance of durability and water resistance. A key feature is the Durathane haul bag material integrated into the top cap, offering exceptional abrasion resistance and waterproofing for the most exposed area. The fly also incorporates an aircraft-quality 6061-T6 aluminum clip-in point, which is incredibly strong and provides a secure anchor for the portaledge. Notably, there is no webbing used in critical areas that could wick water, a smart design choice for maintaining a leak-proof seal. An aluminum storm pole is included to create additional internal space, enhancing comfort and reducing claustrophobia. For situational awareness, a window allows users to check external conditions without compromising the internal environment. The heavy-duty, Jr. Ballistics abrasion skirt is strategically placed to protect the fly from abrasion against the rock face. Finally, all four corners are double reinforced with Durathane haul bag material for maximum longevity. The fly comes with an integrated, compression stuff sack for compact storage.

Performance & Functionality

The core function of the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is to provide a waterproof, windproof, and abrasion-resistant shelter for a portaledge. It performs this primary role exceptionally well. During the heavy rainstorm, the fly maintained a completely dry interior, a testament to its waterproof coating and meticulously taped seams. The aluminum storm pole significantly improved the headroom, making it far more comfortable to move around inside the portaledge than with a completely taut fly. The window was a welcome addition, allowing us to gauge the weather without having to unzip and expose ourselves to the elements. The abrasion skirt effectively protected the lower edges of the fly from the rough granite. Its performance exceeded my expectations, particularly in its ability to maintain a waterproof seal under sustained adverse weather.

Design & Ergonomics

The design of this fly prioritizes function and durability above all else. The use of polyurethane-coated 420d Oxford and Durathane gives it a rugged feel. The aluminum clip-in point is substantial and inspires confidence. While not a sleek, minimalist design, its robust construction feels appropriate for the harsh environments it’s intended for. Attaching the fly to the portaledge frame, while not complex, does require a specific sequence to achieve optimal tension and coverage. Once set up, it feels incredibly secure and well-anchored. The placement of the window and the shape of the storm pole are practical design choices that enhance usability.

Durability & Maintenance

Based on my initial extended use, the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double appears to be built for the long haul. The materials used are inherently durable, and the reinforced corners and abrasion skirt suggest a conscious effort to prevent common failure points. I anticipate it will withstand multiple seasons of serious big wall climbing. Maintenance is straightforward: after use, it’s best to let it air dry completely before stuffing it back into its compression sack. Regular inspection of the seams and clip-in point for any damage will ensure its longevity. There are no complex parts to break, which is a significant advantage in remote or challenging environments.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double comes with its essential accessories: an aluminum storm pole and an integrated compression stuff sack. There are no significant customization options for the fly itself, as its design is highly specialized for its intended purpose. However, its compatibility with most standard double portaledges is a given. The Durathane haul bag material used in its construction is a high-performance fabric often found in high-end haul bags, underscoring the quality of materials.

Pros and Cons of Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double

Who Should Buy Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double?

The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is unequivocally designed for serious big wall climbers and multi-day expedition climbers who demand the utmost in protection and durability from their portaledge system. This is not gear for casual overnight trips or short wall climbs where weight is a primary concern and less extreme conditions are expected. Climbers who frequently face challenging weather, from persistent rain to high winds, will find the superior waterproofing and wind resistance invaluable. Those working on long, sustained routes where spending multiple nights on the wall is the norm will appreciate the enhanced comfort provided by the storm pole and the peace of mind offered by the rugged construction.

However, weekend warriors, crag climbers, or those who prioritize ultralight setups for fast-and-light ascents should look elsewhere. If your biggest concern is shedding every last ounce, or if your climbing usually takes place in arid environments with minimal precipitation, this fly might be overkill. For those individuals, a lighter-weight tarp or a less specialized fly might be a more appropriate and cost-effective choice. For maximizing its utility and ensuring the best experience, having a compatible double portaledge is essential.

Conclusion on Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double

The Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is a premium piece of equipment that lives up to its name and its price. It delivers exceptional protection against the elements, boasting superior waterproofing and robust abrasion resistance thanks to its carefully selected materials like Durathane haul bag material and polyurethane-coated 420d Oxford. The aircraft-quality 6061-T6 aluminum clip-in point and taped seams ensure that water stays out, a critical factor for multi-day wall endeavors. While its 5 lbs. 7 oz. (2.47 kg) weight and $374.49 price tag place it at the higher end of the spectrum, the performance and peace of mind it offers are, in my expert opinion, well worth the investment for its intended audience.

For serious big wall climbers who frequently encounter adverse weather and require the most reliable shelter for their portaledge, I wholeheartedly recommend this fly. It transforms a potentially miserable night into a secure and dry resting place, allowing you to focus on the climb. If you’re a climber whose objectives involve sustained time on vertical terrain and you value bombproof reliability, the Metolius Bomb Shelter Fly – Double is a standout choice that will serve you exceptionally well.