Black Diamond Big Air XP Package Review

Unboxing & First Thoughts on the Black Diamond Big Air XP Package

When the need for a reliable belay and rappel setup arose, my sights turned to the Black Diamond Big Air XP Package. This essential piece of climbing hardware promises functionality and safety in a compact form. My previous setup, while functional, was showing its age and I was eager for an upgrade that offered enhanced security.

After a thorough search, this particular package stood out due to its inclusion of the redesigned ATC-XP belay/rappel device and a robust locking carabiner. I considered a few other standalone devices, but the convenience and value of a bundled package were undeniable. My first impression upon opening the box was one of solid craftsmanship; the aluminum construction felt durable and the weight was well-balanced.

It offered a distinct sense of preparedness, a welcome feeling when dealing with critical safety equipment. This initial assessment left me feeling confident that this might just be the dependable companion I needed for upcoming climbs and rappels.

Real-World Testing: Putting Black Diamond Big Air XP Package to the Test

First Use Experience

My initial foray with the Black Diamond Big Air XP Package was at a local climbing gym, a controlled environment perfect for getting acquainted with new gear. I used it for both top-roping and lead belaying, and for a couple of simulated rappels on a shorter wall. The gym’s polyester blend ropes, ranging from 9.5mm to 10.2mm, provided a good starting point for testing its performance across various diameters.

In terms of ease of use, the ATC-XP was remarkably intuitive. The standard belay mode felt familiar, offering smooth rope feed and retrieval. The “high friction” mode, however, was the real revelation; engaging it significantly increased holding power with minimal effort, which provided an immediate confidence boost. Even with repeated lowering and rappelling, the device remained comfortable to handle, without excessive heat buildup or rope snatch.

One minor surprise was the slight learning curve in switching between the high friction and regular friction modes. It wasn’t difficult, but it required a conscious shift in technique rather than an automatic transition. This is a small quirk, easily overcome with a bit of practice, and didn’t detract from the overall positive first-use experience.

Extended Use & Reliability

Over the following months, the Black Diamond Big Air XP Package became my go-to for a variety of outdoor climbing excursions, from sport climbing crags to multi-pitch rappels. It handled everything from slick, wet ropes after a passing shower to the dusty conditions of desert climbing areas without any discernible performance drop. The aluminium construction proved resilient, showing only minor cosmetic scuffs from occasional contact with rock.

In terms of durability, the belay device itself shows no signs of wear. The friction grooves remain sharp, and the overall structure feels as solid as the day I unboxed it. The included locking carabiner has also held up exceptionally well, with the screwgate mechanism operating smoothly and securely. Maintenance has been minimal; a quick wipe down with a damp cloth after muddy use and a light rinse after exposure to saltwater from a coastal climbing trip were all it needed.

Compared to some older, simpler ATC devices I’ve used, the added high-friction capability of the XP model is a significant upgrade. It provides a noticeable safety margin, especially during long rappels or when dealing with a less experienced climber. It certainly outperforms basic tube-style devices in terms of stopping power, and the integrated locking carabiner simplifies the setup process considerably compared to sourcing components separately.

Breaking Down the Features of Black Diamond Big Air XP Package

Specifications

The Black Diamond Big Air XP Package is built around the core components essential for safe climbing and rappelling. At its heart is the redesigned ATC-XP belay/rappel device, crafted from durable Aluminium.

• ATC-XP Belay/Rappel Device: This is the primary component, designed for manual catch belaying and rappelling. Its standout feature is the high friction mode, which offers a reported 3 times greater hold and stopping power than its regular friction mode. This significantly enhances safety, particularly during rappelling or when catching a fall. The device is engineered to accommodate rope diameters between 7.7 – 11 mm, making it versatile for a wide range of climbing ropes.
• Mini Pearabiner Screwgate Carabiner: This is a crucial component for securely attaching the belay device to the harness. It’s a locking carabiner, which is non-negotiable for safety in climbing. The screwgate mechanism ensures it remains locked, preventing accidental opening. Its pear shape is common for belay devices, offering a good balance of strength and gate opening.
• Weight: The entire package weighs approximately 4.7 oz, which is lightweight enough not to be a burden on a climbing harness. This weight distribution feels balanced, and it contributes to the overall portability of the setup.
• Color: The package comes in a distinctive Dark Gray/Blue color scheme, which is both aesthetically pleasing and practical for visibility on a cluttered harness.
• Rope Capacity: As mentioned, the ATC-XP is designed for ropes ranging from 7.7 – 11 mm. This covers most single climbing ropes used in sport climbing, trad climbing, and for rappelling.
• Belay Type: The device facilitates Manual Catch belay, a standard and widely understood method. The XP designation highlights its enhanced friction capabilities.
• Application: The package is explicitly marketed for Sport Climbing, and Rappelling. Its design and features directly support these activities.

These specifications collectively create a reliable and user-friendly system. The aluminium construction ensures durability without adding excessive weight. The 7.7 – 11 mm rope capacity makes it suitable for a majority of climbers’ needs. The high friction mode is a critical safety feature, and the inclusion of a locking carabiner means it’s ready to use straight out of the package.

Performance & Functionality

The Black Diamond Big Air XP Package excels at its core functions: belaying and rappelling. The primary job of any belay device is to provide controlled rope management and the ability to safely stop a falling climber or manage a rappel descent. This package performs admirably on both fronts.

In belay mode, the ATC-XP feeds rope smoothly when paying out slack, and locks effectively when resistance is applied. The regular friction mode provides a standard level of control, suitable for experienced climbers who are comfortable with their gear. However, the real star is the high friction mode. Engaging this mode, by flipping the device, provides a significantly more secure hold. This translates to less strain on the belayer’s arms during prolonged belaying sessions and, more importantly, a greater margin of error during a catch.

For rappelling, the high friction mode is indispensable. It dramatically reduces the force required to control the descent, making even long rappels more manageable and safer. The device effectively slows the rope’s passage, offering a much more controlled and less demanding rappel experience. It’s reassuring to know that even if my grip falters slightly, the increased friction will help prevent a runaway descent.

The main strength of this package lies in this dual-mode functionality. It offers the versatility to adapt to different situations and skill levels. The weakness, if one can call it that, is the slight learning curve to master the transition between modes quickly and instinctively. However, for its intended applications, the performance is excellent, exceeding expectations for a package at this price point.

Design & Ergonomics

The design of the Black Diamond Big Air XP Package prioritizes functionality and safety. The ATC-XP device itself is a well-thought-out piece of equipment. Its form factor is streamlined, making it easy to handle and manipulate even with gloves on.

The aluminium construction gives it a reassuring heft; it doesn’t feel flimsy or cheap. The finish is smooth, which aids in rope glide, and the anodized color makes it easy to spot amongst gear. The internal geometry of the device is designed to create the necessary friction without unduly abrading the rope.

Ergonomically, the device fits comfortably in the hand. The addition of the “horns” or extended friction slots for the high friction mode is well-executed. They provide a natural point of contact and leverage when engaging this mode. The included Mini Pearabiner screwgate carabiner is also ergonomically sound. Its size is appropriate, allowing for easy manipulation of the gate and screw lock, even when wearing gloves.

A practical design detail is the clear differentiation between the standard and high friction modes. The orientation required for each mode is distinct, reducing the chance of accidental engagement of the wrong setting. The overall feel is one of robust engineering; it’s a tool designed for demanding use and the design reflects that.

Durability & Maintenance

When it comes to durability, the Black Diamond Big Air XP Package is built to last for years under normal climbing conditions. The aluminium used in the ATC-XP belay device is a standard material in the climbing industry for a reason; it’s strong, lightweight, and corrosion-resistant. The included carabiner is also made from a solid metal alloy.

Under my extended use, which included exposure to dust, occasional moisture, and significant friction from ropes, there were no signs of premature wear. The machining on the ATC-XP is precise, and the edges of the friction grooves have remained sharp and effective. The screwgate on the carabiner still operates smoothly, with no signs of sticking or looseness.

Maintenance is refreshingly simple. For the ATC-XP, a periodic wipe-down with a dry cloth is usually sufficient to remove any dust or grime that might affect rope friction. If it gets particularly dirty or muddy, a rinse with clean water and thorough drying will restore its performance. The carabiner requires similar minimal care; ensuring the threads of the screwgate are clean will maintain its smooth operation.

In terms of longevity, I anticipate getting many seasons of climbing out of this setup. It feels like a tool that could easily outlast my climbing career if cared for properly. Unlike some cheaper, lower-quality alternatives that might develop rough spots or weaken over time, this package feels built to endure.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Black Diamond Big Air XP Package is an integrated system designed for immediate use, meaning it comes with the essential components already paired. The primary “accessories” are the two key pieces themselves: the ATC-XP belay device and the Mini Pearabiner screwgate carabiner.

Beyond these, there isn’t extensive customization for the package itself, as it’s a fundamental safety tool. However, its compatibility with standard climbing equipment is excellent. The carabiner uses a standard screwgate mechanism, and the ATC-XP is designed to work with a wide range of common single climbing ropes.

What users might consider “customizing” is how they integrate this package into their personal climbing system. Some climbers prefer specific types of locking carabiners, perhaps auto-locking mechanisms like a Twistlock or Ball-lock. However, the included screwgate carabiner is a secure and widely accepted standard.

Additionally, while the ATC-XP is versatile, climbers might opt for different belay devices depending on their preferred rope diameters or specific rappelling needs. But for the broad applications of sport climbing and general rappelling, this package provides a complete and functional setup without needing additional “accessories” for basic operation. Its strength lies in its self-sufficiency right out of the box.

Pros and Cons of Black Diamond Big Air XP Package

Who Should Buy Black Diamond Big Air XP Package?

The Black Diamond Big Air XP Package is ideally suited for intermediate to advanced climbers who are comfortable with manual belay devices and require enhanced friction for rappelling or extended belay sessions. It’s an excellent choice for sport climbers who frequently rappel their routes, and for those who engage in multi-pitch climbing where rope management is critical.

Anyone looking for a reliable and safe belay/rappel setup without the complexity of assisted-braking devices would benefit from this package. It’s also a great option for climbers who appreciate the added security of higher friction, especially when dealing with thinner ropes or heavier loads. This package is particularly valuable for those who prioritize durability and a proven track record in their climbing gear.

Those who are absolute beginners and have not yet learned the fundamentals of manual belaying might find it more beneficial to start with basic instruction and perhaps an assisted-braking device under supervision. Climbers who exclusively use assisted-braking devices for all their belaying and rappelling needs might not find the manual nature of the ATC-XP to be their preferred choice.

For anyone purchasing this package, ensuring you understand and practice the transition to the high friction mode is a must.

Conclusion on Black Diamond Big Air XP Package

The Black Diamond Big Air XP Package stands as a testament to Black Diamond’s commitment to producing reliable and effective climbing gear. It delivers on its promise of safety and functionality, particularly with the inclusion of the high-friction mode on the ATC-XP, which offers a tangible improvement in control for both belaying and rappelling. The aluminium construction ensures it’s both lightweight and durable, a critical combination for any piece of climbing equipment.

Considering its price point of $39.95, the value proposition is outstanding. You receive a complete, ready-to-use belay and rappel system that integrates key safety features. This package offers a significant upgrade over basic tube devices and provides a level of security that is well worth the investment.

I would wholeheartedly recommend the Black Diamond Big Air XP Package to climbers seeking a dependable, versatile, and safe tool for their ascents and descents. It’s a well-executed piece of equipment that offers peace of mind in demanding situations, making it a valuable addition to any climber’s rack.