Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11 Review

My Journey with the Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11

For over a decade, I’ve relied on the right gear to get the job done, whether it was deep in the backcountry, hunched over a workbench, or calibrating sensitive instruments in a lab. This extensive experience has honed my appreciation for reliable, functional equipment. When the need arose for robust, versatile passive protection in an expanding range of crack sizes, my mind immediately turned to the classic cam alternatives: Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11. These aren’t new to the market, but their enduring utility is precisely what makes them worth revisiting.

My current setup was feeling a bit light in the smaller, flaring cracks that cams can sometimes skip out of. I was tackling a route with highly variable crack widths, and the thought of relying solely on active protection in such conditions felt risky. While I have a dedicated rack of cams, I distinctly remembered the unique holding power of hexes in just these sorts of situations. I considered a few other brands of passive protection, but the reputation of Black Diamond for bombproof gear, combined with the affordability and wide size range of their Hexentrics, made them the clear choice. A quick glance confirmed their simple, elegant design. My first impression was one of familiar robustness; they felt solid in hand, the aluminum body substantial yet not overly heavy.

Real-World Testing: Putting Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11 to the Test

First Use Experience

I first put these wired hexes to the test on a granite multi-pitch climb known for its fractured, widening seams. The approach involved some scrambling, and the rack was a familiar weight on my harness. Placing the smaller sizes into parallel or slightly flaring cracks proved straightforward, and the hexagonal shape offered multiple orientations for a secure fit. The galvanized steel cables felt reassuringly strong with each placement.

The conditions were typical for late spring in the mountains – warm rock, a light breeze, and the occasional dusting of grit. These wired hexes performed admirably, finding purchase where I might have second-guessed a cam. They were intuitive to place, requiring minimal fuss even with gloves on. The only minor surprise was how easily some of the smaller sizes seated themselves with a satisfying thunk, almost as if they were designed to self-wedge with precision.

Extended Use & Reliability

Weeks and months later, these hexes have become a staple on many of my trad climbing adventures. They’ve been abused, dropped (accidentally, of course), and subjected to everything from damp desert sandstone to rough alpine granite. They continue to hold strong.

There are some minor scuffs on the aluminum bodies from countless placements, but no significant deformation or degradation of the holding surfaces. The galvanized steel cables remain flexible and show no signs of fraying or corrosion, even after exposure to rain and sweat. Cleaning is simple: a quick rinse under a tap and a light brush removes any grit. For maintenance, I occasionally inspect the swages on the cables, but they’ve held up perfectly. Compared to some older passive pro I’ve used, these Black Diamond units feel significantly more durable and maintain their camming potential across their size range.

Breaking Down the Features of Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11

Specifications

The Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11 are a set of passive protection pieces, varying in size and intended use. Each hexentric is crafted from 6061-T6 aluminum, a material known for its strength-to-weight ratio, ensuring durability without adding excessive bulk to your rack. They come equipped with robust, galvanized steel cables, which are swaged for a secure and reliable connection.

The weight of a single unit, such as the #1, is a mere 0.67 oz, making it incredibly light to carry multiple units. The truly ingenious aspect is their design: a subtly asymmetrical cross-section with flat sides and a slight taper. This allows each hex to be placed in three different widths by rotating it on its axis, and an additional width when placed end-wise, offering remarkable versatility in varied crack geometries.

Performance & Functionality

In their primary role, these hexentrics perform exceptionally well. Their strength lies in their ability to find and hold in widening cracks where a cam might walk out or fail to set securely. The unique geometry allows them to function almost like a cam in certain placements, creating outward force against the rock.

Their greatest strengths are their versatility and reliability in specific scenarios. They excel in irregular or pocketed cracks, and their relative simplicity means fewer moving parts to fail. A potential weakness, inherent to all passive pro, is that their effectiveness is highly dependent on the quality of the placement and the rock’s integrity. However, when placed correctly, they offer confidence-inspiring security. For their intended purpose, they meet and often exceed expectations, especially considering their attractive price point.

Design & Ergonomics

The design of these hexentrics is a testament to functional simplicity. The 6061-T6 aluminum body feels robust and well-machined, with a matte finish that offers decent grip. The hexagonal shape, while offering multiple placement options, is also comfortable to handle and rack.

Ergonomically, they are straightforward to use. The galvanized steel cables are flexible enough to allow for precise placement and minimize rope drag. The swaged end provides a secure attachment point for carabiners. There’s virtually no learning curve for those familiar with passive protection; they slot into cracks with a predictable feel. The slightly asymmetrical design is key to their multi-width functionality, a brilliant piece of engineering that aids in finding solid placements.

Durability & Maintenance

These Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11 are built to last. Given their solid aluminum construction and durable galvanized steel cables, they are designed for a long service life under typical climbing abuse. I anticipate years of reliable service from this set.

Maintenance is blessedly simple. A quick rinse after a dirty day, and they are good to go. Unlike mechanical cams, there are no springs or intricate parts to clean or lubricate. The galvanized steel cables are inherently corrosion-resistant, and the swages appear to be very securely attached. The main point to watch out for is avoiding placements where the aluminum might be significantly abraded or chipped by sharp rock edges over prolonged use, though this is a general concern for all metal protection.

Accessories and Customization Options

The Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11 are sold as individual units or as a set, and they typically come ready to rack. No additional accessories are included or generally required for their basic function. Their design is self-contained and optimized for direct use with standard climbing carabiners.

While there aren’t “customization options” in the traditional sense, the inherent design of the hexentric itself offers multiple “custom” placement possibilities. The ability to rotate the unit on its axis and place it end-wise provides an array of unique fitting angles, effectively turning one piece of gear into multiple potential placements. This adaptability is their key feature.

Pros and Cons of Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11

Who Should Buy Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11?

These wired hexentrics are an excellent choice for trad climbers, especially those venturing into multi-pitch routes or areas known for irregular crack systems. They are particularly well-suited for climbers looking to round out their rack with reliable, affordable passive protection that excels in specific scenarios. Intermediate to advanced climbers who understand how to effectively place passive gear will find immense value here.

Beginner trad climbers should consider them as a supplementary piece once they have a basic rack of cams, focusing first on mastering cam placements. Anyone looking for gear that is incredibly durable, lightweight, and won’t break the bank will appreciate this set. For those who primarily climb in granite or sandstone environments with varied crack features, these are a no-brainer.

Conclusion on Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11

The Black Diamond Wired Hexentrics #1 – #11 are a testament to the enduring utility of well-designed passive protection. They offer exceptional versatility, reliability, and value, making them an indispensable part of any serious trad climber’s rack. Their ability to find purchase in expanding cracks where other gear might falter is invaluable, and their simple, robust construction ensures they will be a trusted companion for years to come.

The price point makes them an incredibly attractive option, especially for those looking to expand their protection options without a massive investment. While they require a bit more skill and judgment than mechanical cams, their unique holding power in specific situations makes them worth mastering. I wholeheartedly recommend these hexentrics to any trad climber looking to enhance their rack with bombproof, versatile, and cost-effective gear.