The Road Test: Lightweight Champions for the Vertical World
For years, my climbing rack has evolved. From hefty steel carabiners to more refined aluminum alloys, the constant pursuit of reduced weight without compromising safety or functionality is a familiar journey. My latest obsession has been minimizing ounces on multi-pitch routes, where every gram adds up, especially when you’re hauling gear and the sun is beating down. This need led me to the C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws.
The quest began after a particularly demanding multi-pitch sport climb in a desert environment. My gear loops were overloaded, and retrieving draws felt like fumbling with oversized anchors. I needed something that would declutter my harness and streamline the clipping process, especially on lead. After scouring various options, the allure of C.A.M.P.’s reputation for innovative lightweight gear, coupled with specific features like the Nano 22 carabiners, pointed me toward this particular quickdraw.
My initial impression upon receiving the draws was one of sheer lightness. The carabiners themselves felt almost feather-light, yet the build quality exuded a sense of robustness. The Dyneema dogbone felt supple and strong, a welcome contrast to some stiffer webbing I’d encountered on other lightweight draws. I briefly considered some ultralight wire-gate options from other brands, but the solid gate design and the specific mention of the Karstop Evo retainer on the C.A.M.P. draws tipped the scales. A sense of focused curiosity settled in – could these tiny draws truly hold up to the demands of serious climbing?
Real-World Testing: Putting C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws to the Test
My testing ground for these draws was primarily multi-pitch sport climbing and extended alpine rock routes. I subjected them to countless clips on granite and limestone, often in dusty conditions and under the relentless midday sun. The Dyneema dogbones were frequently slung over rough rock edges during transitions, and the carabiners themselves endured the typical tumbles and brushes that come with leading.
The first few pitches were a revelation. Clipping the rope felt surprisingly natural, despite the compact size of the Nano 22 carabiners. Even the crucial rope-end carabiner, where I often test a draw’s handling with a clove hitch, proved surprisingly manageable. There was an initial learning curve to orienting the carabiners quickly by feel, but this was minor and quickly became second nature.
After several weeks of intensive use, these draws have proven remarkably resilient. The Dyneema dogbones show minimal fuzzing, even after repeated abrasion against abrasive rock faces. The Nano 22 carabiners have maintained their smooth gate action, with no stiffness or grinding. I haven’t encountered any significant wear or tear beyond the cosmetic scuffs one expects from climbing gear.
Compared to some older, heavier draws I’ve used, the durability and consistent performance are striking. They’ve held up admirably against budget-friendly alternatives that often sacrifice material quality for price. Cleaning them is a simple matter of a quick rinse and brush, and their lightweight nature makes drying swift. I’ve also found that the compact profile makes them less prone to snagging on clothing or other gear.
First Use Experience
I primarily tested these draws on a series of demanding multi-pitch sport routes in the Dolomites and on a challenging alpine ascent in the Swiss Alps. The bright yellow color of the Dyneema dogbones made them highly visible against the rock, aiding in quick identification during complex sequences. The compact nature of the Nano 22 carabiners was immediately apparent on my gear rack.
The carabiners themselves are incredibly light, almost unnervingly so at first. Yet, the positive lock gates operate smoothly and securely, providing confidence with every clip. The 11 mm x 18 cm Dyneema dogbone felt robust and sufficiently long for most clipping situations I encountered.
Extended Use & Reliability
Over a full season of climbing, from spring cragging to late autumn alpine adventures, these quickdraws have become my go-to. They’ve endured dusty sandstone crags, abrasive granite, and the occasional damp pitch. The Dyneema dogbone has shown excellent abrasion resistance, with only minor surface wear despite frequent contact with sharp rock.
The Nano 22 carabiners have retained their smooth gate action, and the locking mechanisms remain secure. I haven’t experienced any sticking or premature opening. The Karstop Evo carabiner retainer on the rope end has been a standout feature, consistently keeping the carabiner in place and preventing unnecessary cross-loading or fumbling.
Breaking Down the Features of C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws
Specifications
The C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws are engineered for the weight-conscious climber. Each draw features two Nano 22 carabiners, known for their exceptionally small footprint and light weight. These carabiners boast a solid gate, offering a clean and reliable clipping interface. The dogbone connecting these carabiners is a 11 mm x 18 cm Dyneema sling, chosen for its superior strength-to-weight ratio and flexibility.
One of the most crucial specifications is the proprietary Karstop Evo carabiner retainer present on the rope-end carabiner. This feature is designed to prevent the carabiner from twisting or swinging excessively, ensuring it’s always oriented correctly for clipping. The overall length of the draw is listed as 12 cm, referring to the carabiner-to-carabiner span along the dogbone.
Performance & Functionality
In practice, the performance of these quickdraws is outstanding, especially for their intended purpose. The primary job of a quickdraw – to facilitate secure and efficient protection placement and removal – is handled with aplomb. The Nano 22 carabiners, while small, still offer a surprising amount of space for clipping the rope, and the gate opening is generous enough for comfortable handling.
The Karstop Evo retainer is a game-changer for simplifying clipping on the sharp end. It keeps the rope-end carabiner from flipping around unnecessarily, significantly reducing fumbling and speeding up the clipping process. This is particularly beneficial on longer, more sustained pitches where fatigue can set in.
Design & Ergonomics
The design philosophy behind the C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws is clearly focused on minimalism and efficiency. The Nano 22 carabiners are the stars of the show, with their compact size making them incredibly unobtrusive on a harness. Despite their small dimensions, they feel substantial in the hand and offer a secure grip, even with gloves on in cooler conditions.
The Dyneema dogbone is narrow and flexible, which contributes to the overall low profile and packability of the draws. The bright yellow color of the dogbone is a thoughtful touch, making them easy to spot against rock and quick to identify on a cluttered rack. The Karstop Evo retainer is a small but impactful ergonomic addition, simplifying the most critical clipping action.
Durability & Maintenance
The expected lifespan of these quickdraws is good, provided they are used within their intended scope. The Dyneema dogbone is renowned for its durability and resistance to UV degradation, though it can be susceptible to damage from sharp edges or extreme heat. The Nano 22 carabiners, made from high-quality aluminum alloy, are designed for long-term use.
Maintenance is straightforward. Occasional rinsing with clean water to remove dirt and debris is recommended, followed by air drying. It’s crucial to inspect the carabiners for any signs of damage, such as significant dents or cracks, and to check the dogbone for fraying or excessive wear.
Accessories and Customization Options
The C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws are sold as a complete unit, and there are no specific accessories or major customization options for the draws themselves. The primary “accessory” integrated into the design is the Karstop Evo carabiner retainer, which is a fixed part of the draw. While you can purchase individual Nano 22 carabiners and Dyneema slings to build custom draws, these express draws come pre-assembled.
Pros and Cons of C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws
Pros
- Hyperlight weight: These are some of the lightest quickdraws on the market, significantly reducing overall rack weight.
- Compact carabiners: The Nano 22 carabiners take up minimal space on gear loops, making rack management much easier.
- Secure and reliable gates: The solid gates on the Nano 22 carabiners inspire confidence with every clip.
- Proprietary Karstop Evo retainer: This feature is invaluable for keeping the rope-end carabiner oriented correctly, simplifying clipping and enhancing safety.
- Durable Dyneema dogbone: The 11 mm x 18 cm Dyneema sling is strong, lightweight, and offers good abrasion resistance.
- Excellent for multi-pitch and alpine: Their weight and compact nature make them ideal for long routes where every ounce counts.
Cons
- Small carabiner size: While a benefit for weight and space, the compact size can make them slightly more challenging to manipulate with thick gloves or in extreme cold.
- Potential for wear on extreme edges: Like all Dyneema slings, prolonged rubbing on very sharp rock edges can eventually lead to wear.
- Higher price point: Specialized ultralight gear often comes with a premium price tag.
Who Should Buy C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws?
These quickdraws are an absolute dream for multi-pitch sport climbers, alpine rock climbers, and any climber prioritizing weight reduction. If you frequently find yourself burdened by a heavy rack on long ascents, these will be a welcome addition. They are also a fantastic choice for ice climbers and mixed climbers who deal with bulky mitts and want to shave grams where possible.
Anyone looking to optimize their gear for fast-and-light ascents, or simply seeking a more comfortable and manageable rack for longer days out, should seriously consider these. They excel in environments where efficiency and minimizing fatigue are paramount. However, climbers who primarily engage in single-pitch sport climbing or bouldering, where weight is less of a concern and larger carabiners might be preferred for ease of handling, might find them to be overkill. Those who frequently climb in extremely cold conditions with very thick gloves might also prefer slightly larger carabiners.
Conclusion on C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws
The C.A.M.P. Nano 22 Express KS Dyneema Quickdraws are a triumph of minimalist design and intelligent engineering. They successfully tackle the perennial challenge of reducing weight without sacrificing essential functionality or safety. The combination of the ultra-light Nano 22 carabiners and the effective Karstop Evo retainer makes them exceptionally well-suited for demanding multi-pitch and alpine adventures.
For their intended use, the value proposition is strong. While they represent an investment, the performance benefits – reduced fatigue, easier rack management, and simplified clipping – are undeniable for the serious alpine or multi-pitch climber. I wholeheartedly recommend these quickdraws to anyone looking to lighten their load and enhance their efficiency on vertical terrain. If weight is your enemy and performance your ally on long climbs, these draws are a superb choice.