Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 Review

After the Test: My Review of Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4

For years, the allure of Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 has been a constant in the climbing world, promising a lighter, more versatile approach to protecting questionable placements. As a gear specialist with over a decade of putting equipment through its paces across diverse environments – from the granite slabs of Squamish to the sandstone spires of Utah, and even the unforgiving quartzite of the Gunks – I approached this set with a seasoned skepticism and a keen eye for detail. My past experiences with various camming devices, some exceptional and others forgettable, have taught me that “ultralight” and “power” aren’t always synonymous with true reliability when you’re hanging precariously.

The impetus for this deep dive wasn’t a sudden failure of existing gear, but rather a growing need to optimize weight on longer approaches and multi-pitch routes where every ounce counts. I was looking for a set that could handle the nuanced challenges of modern trad climbing, from shallow cracks to awkward flared placements, without sacrificing the confidence that robust protection provides. The idea of a single set that could excel in both free and aid scenarios, across a spectrum of rock types, was a compelling proposition.

My initial impression upon handling the Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 was one of precise engineering. The machined aluminum lobes felt solid, the U-shaped body offered a reassuring grip, and the innovative Direct Axle Technology (DAT) promised a slimmer profile. This wasn’t just another set of cams; it felt like a deliberate evolution in design, aiming to address specific climbing conundrums. I had previously considered other lightweight cams but found their single-axle designs sometimes lacking in stability or range.

Immediately, there was a sense of anticipation, a feeling that these cams might indeed live up to their ambitious claims. It was a feeling not of dramatic revelation, but of quiet confidence in well-executed design.

Real-World Testing: Putting Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 to the Test

First Use Experience

I first took the Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 to the rugged granite formations just outside of my local workshop area, a place notorious for its sometimes runout pitches and varied crack systems. My testing began with simulated placements on a controlled setup, focusing on the ease of deployment and retraction of each cam unit. The cams slid into place with a satisfying, clean action, and the improved visibility of the lobes, particularly in the smaller sizes, was immediately apparent.

The Monster Sling webbing felt robust yet flexible, making it easy to manage in hand, especially during those crucial moments of clipping into a piece of gear. I deliberately sought out shallow and bottoming placements, areas where many cams struggle, and was impressed by how the Direct Axle Technology (DAT) facilitated secure placements. The reduced swing and better contact offered by the wider cam faces also contributed to a more stable feel.

After a full day of climbing, the cams showed no signs of significant wear, though I did notice a few minor scuffs on the lobes from contact with coarse granite. Retraction was consistently smooth, even after repeated placements and removals. One minor quirk I encountered was that the Range Finder markings, while useful, required a moment to interpret precisely in certain lighting conditions, especially on very dark rock.

Extended Use & Reliability

Over the following months, these ultralight power cams became my go-to set for a variety of climbing disciplines. They accompanied me on long alpine routes where weight was a critical factor, on multi-pitch desert towers where versatility was paramount, and even on shorter, technical sport climbing routes that involved challenging trad cruxes. Through repeated use, the cams have maintained their performance exceptionally well.

There are no visible cracks or signs of deformation in the aluminum lobes, and the stem remains stiff and responsive. The CNC machined construction has undoubtedly contributed to their long-term durability, with no looseness or degradation in the camming action. Maintenance has been straightforward; a quick rinse with water and a light application of lubricant on the axle keeps them operating smoothly.

Compared to some of the older, heavier cam units I’ve used, these Metolius cams offer a significant advantage in terms of weight and packability without compromising on security. While some premium, ultra-specialized cams might offer slightly better holding power in extremely parallel cracks, for the vast majority of common rock types and placements, these ultralight power cams perform on par with, if not better than, their heavier counterparts. The only area where I’ve noticed a slight decrease in performance is on exceptionally glassy or polished rock, where any cam can be susceptible to wandering.

Breaking Down the Features of Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4

Specifications

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 is meticulously crafted from high-grade 7075-T6 Aluminum, a material renowned for its strength-to-weight ratio. This forms the foundation of their ultralight design, with the entire set weighing in at a mere 9.3 oz, a significant advantage for any climber conscious of their pack load. Each cam features a single axle design, ingeniously integrated with Direct Axle Technology (DAT), which is key to their slim profile and placement versatility.

The double stem design contributes to the overall stability and directional loading capabilities of these units. The set includes sizes #1 through #4, covering a crucial range for general trad climbing. The 13 mm (0.51″) Monster Sling webbing is a blend of 36% Dyneema and 64% nylon, offering a balance of strength, low stretch, and abrasion resistance.

Performance & Functionality

The primary function of the Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 is to provide secure protection in a variety of rock fractures, and in this regard, they excel. The optimized cam angle generates more outward force, meaning the cams seat more securely in parallel-sided cracks. Coupled with the wider cam faces, this results in increased surface area contact with the rock, enhancing grip.

The standout feature for me has been the Direct Axle Technology (DAT), which allows for a more direct application of force onto the axle. This technology significantly improves the cam’s ability to function in shallow, narrow, or bottoming placements where traditional cams might struggle to find purchase or set reliably. The ease with which these cams can be placed and retracted, even in awkward situations, speaks volumes about their functional design.

Design & Ergonomics

The overall design of these cams is a testament to thoughtful engineering. The U-shaped body provides a secure and comfortable grip for easy placement and retraction, minimizing the chances of fumbling during critical moments. The CNC machined construction ensures precise tolerances, leading to a more reliable and consistent performance across the entire set.

Each cam also features machined cam stops, which prevent over-rotation and add another layer of security. The color-coding of the sewn slings and tubing is a practical touch that allows for quick identification of sizes at a glance, a feature that becomes invaluable when moving quickly or under pressure. The overall finish is durable and aesthetically pleasing, reflecting the premium nature of the product.

Durability & Maintenance

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 is built to withstand the rigors of extensive use in varied climbing environments. The 7075-T6 Aluminum construction is inherently durable, and the CNC machining process further enhances its longevity by ensuring consistent material density and precision. I have experienced no significant wear beyond superficial scuffing on the lobes, even after numerous placements on abrasive rock.

Maintenance is minimal, primarily involving occasional cleaning to remove dirt and debris from the axle and lobes. A light application of cam lubricant can help maintain smooth operation over time. The Monster Sling webbing, being a blend of Dyneema and nylon, is also highly durable and resistant to abrasion, though like all webbing, it should be inspected regularly for any signs of damage or wear.

Accessories and Customization Options

While the Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 is designed as a standalone, highly functional system, its color-coded sewn slings and tubing serve as a primary organizational accessory, making size identification rapid. The integrated Range Finder is a clever feature that essentially acts as a built-in accessory, aiding in proper cam selection for specific placements. Metolius does not offer specific needle or tip attachments for these cams, as they are designed for direct placement within rock features.

However, the Monster Sling webbing is compatible with standard carabiners, and the overall design allows for integration into most climbing rack setups. The emphasis is on the cam itself being the complete, ready-to-deploy unit, rather than relying on add-on components.

Pros and Cons of Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4

Who Should Buy Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4?

This set of Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 is an outstanding choice for experienced trad climbers who prioritize lightweight gear without compromising on security or versatility. Climbers tackling long multi-pitch routes, alpine ascents, or demanding big wall objectives will especially appreciate the weight savings and enhanced placement capabilities. They are also an excellent option for climbers operating on varied rock types, from granite and sandstone to limestone, where the cams’ adaptability shines.

Those who frequently find themselves in situations requiring precise placement in shallow, narrow, or irregular cracks will benefit immensely from the Direct Axle Technology (DAT). However, beginners who are still developing their trad climbing skills might find the initial investment steep and might prefer starting with a more basic, less expensive cam set. For those prioritizing absolute lightest weight, the Monster Sling webbing further contributes to the overall packability.

Conclusion on Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4

The Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 has firmly established itself as a benchmark in modern climbing protection. Its innovative design, robust construction, and exceptional performance, particularly in challenging placements, make it a worthwhile investment for any serious trad climber. The combination of 7075-T6 Aluminum construction and Direct Axle Technology (DAT) delivers a product that is both incredibly light and remarkably effective.

Considering their performance across a wide range of rock types and their ability to tackle placements where other cams might falter, the price, while significant, is justified by the quality and engineering. I would wholeheartedly recommend this set to experienced climbers looking to optimize their rack weight and enhance their confidence on challenging routes. For those who value meticulous design and superior functionality in their climbing gear, the Metolius Ultralight Power Cam Set Number 1-4 is an easy choice.